Sew Alongs, Tutorials

Benjamin Dopp Kit Sew Along Day 5: Sewing the Side Seams and Boxing the Corners

This is the trickiest part of the Benjamin Dopp Kit, but don't worry, I will break it down for you! This is also kind of a lot, so you may want to take the weekend to work through it all.  

Center the tabs over each end of the zipper, with right sides down and raw edges aligned with the raw edges of Outer Body (A). The metal spot will be facing down and the folded edge of the tabs will be facing toward each other. Move the Lining Body (C) out of the way, and clip the tabs in place. This video demonstrates how to position the zipper tabs and secure them in place:

Use a zipper foot and slightly reduce the length of your machine’s stitches for this step.  

Open the zipper at least 3/4 of the way. Keep the two sides of the zipper close together using clips or pins.

Sew the side seams by arranging your bag so that the lining is on top as the piece enters your machine. Fold the lining out of the way, and sew each side seam of the outer body, sewing over the zipper tape and tab. Your seam allowance may be slightly wider than 1/2” due to using a zipper foot, and that’s OK. Go slowly and use the hand wheel if necessary. Here is a video that demonstrates this step:

Here is what your side seam will look like after sewing:

Trim seam allowances of side seams to 1/4”. 

Switch to your regular foot. We will now box the four corners of the outer body. On each corner, mark a 1 1/4” x 1 1/4” square from the seam line and the folded edge. Cut these squares out, as shown in this photo:

Finger press the seam allowance of the side seam open. On each of the Outer Body (A) corners, bring the side and bottoms seams to meet with right sides together as shown in the photo below, and pin or clip to secure.

This video shows how to cut and secure the boxed corners:

And this video shows how to sew the boxed corners:

Once you are finished boxing outer bag corners, your bag will look like this:

Now it's time to do this whole thing on the lining!

Switch thread to match the lining. Use a zipper foot and reduce your stitch length slightly. Using the same process as you did for the outer body, sew the side seams of the lining, moving the Outer Body (A) out of the way. This step is a little awkward- here is a video to help you out:

Here is a visual of securing the side seam of the lining:

And here is the lining side seam once it has been sewn:

Switch to a regular foot. Box the four corners of the lining body using the same method as for the outer body, sewing each seam with a 5/8” seam allowance. Using this larger seam allowance will help the lining fit nicely into the outer body. Trim seam allowances to 1/4”. Boxing the lining corners is probably the trickiest part of this bag because of the way the outer bag body is pulling the lining fabric. Here is a video demo:

Phew! You are through the hard part. Here is what you should end up with at the end of this part of the Sew Along (it ain't pretty, I know!):

 I warned you this was a lot! I will catch you back here in a couple of days to finish up! Have a wonderful weekend, everyone!