Chamomile Tote, Sew Alongs

The Chamomile Tote Sew Along Day 6: Version A Lining Side B

Today we will be working on Side B of Version A's lining.

With right sides together, fold the Lining Side B Elastic Pocket (B-I) in half lengthwise and sew the short raw edges together. Flip the piece right side out and press so that the seam is at the bottom edge of the pocket.

At the top edge of the pocket, topstitch two lines, 1/8” and 1” from the top folded edge. This is the elastic channel.

On the bottom edge of the pocket, create a box pleat as follows: on the back side of the pocket, make a mark 4” from the edge of the pocket, then make a mark 1” to either side of the middle mark. Pinch the fabric at each of these side marks, and bring it to meet at the middle mark, forming a pleat. Baste in place. 

Attach a safety pin to one side of the piece of elastic and thread it through the elastic channel on the pocket. Distribute the gathers evenly, and baste each end to make sure that it stays put. Lay the pocket on the Lining Side B Center Panel (B-H), with the top of the pocket 1” down from the top edge of piece B-H (both pieces right side up). Line up the sides of the pocket and piece B-H and baste sides with a 1/4” seam allowance. Topstitch 1/8” from the bottom edge of the pocket, then sew over this line of stitching a second time for reinforcement. A slight curve in the bottom of the pocket is fine. Remove basting stitches on the pleat.

Place a Lining Side B Side Panel (B-G) right sides together with long edge matched with the long edge of the assembled center panel. Stitch. Press the seam allowance toward piece B-G and topstitch on B-G 1/8” away from the seam. Repeat for the other side panel. Check to ensure the width of the piece is 19” and trim if needed. Mark and cut a 3” x 3” square from the bottom corner of each B-G piece.

Switch thread to match the outer body fabric and sew the Lining Facings (D) to the top of each lining side, right sides together. Press the seam allowance up toward the facing, then topstitch on the facing 1/8” away from the seam. 

Note: As you can see, I used black for the facings on this sample. Since sewing the sample for the Sew Along, we decided to change the facings to match the Outer Body fabric. We originally thought the Lining Facings should match the zipper color, but we changed our minds (that's allowed, right?)